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While Convivial is best experienced in person (I gravitate to the central bar, the source of some terrific hot drinks), its takeout is superb. Dishes you don’t expect to travel well do, in fact, including seafood stew. One container is a treasure trove of prawns, steamed mussels and a trio of fish; a second carton contains the broth, a smooth lip-smacker coaxed from tomatoes, wine and what tastes like a sea of fish bones. Obvious to fans of bouillabaisse, the zesty rouille is destined for the flat croutons. Assembly at home is a (sea) breeze. The pork chop is mighty fine, too, thanks to its thick cut and a drape of cornichon-crisped charcuterie sauce.

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