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Since the beginning, Sofia, 44, has determined how the food is plated, picked the curtains and dinnerware and glasses and candles, and served as quality control. Now she’s overseeing supplies and operations at all three restaurants, as well as remaining the head chef, preparing spice mixes (turmeric, cumin, sumac) and training cooks how to marinate the meats and layer flavors in the stews. Rohia, Omar’s mother, 72, who designed the menu with 200-year-old, pre-Soviet “Kingdom of Afghanistan” recipes passed down for generations, still stops by every other week to taste the food and offer tweaks. Eve, 35, went from pinch hitting in Springfield to running the place. Taliha, who’s also getting a degree in business management from Northern Virginia Community College, went from learning how to be a manager at Bistro Aracosia to being fully in charge. Iman was swiftly promoted from being a server at Aracosia McLean to a manager-in-training, and recently graduated out of the “in training” part of her title.

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